THE GREEK ISLANDS
The
nearby to Athens islands of Aegina, Angistri, Methana and Poros
(pictured)
A nice day trip from Athens.
Take the ferry rather then the Flying Dolphin(hydrafoil) so you can relax
and enjoy the scenery of the short trip. Aegina is the closest and you
can sail to the main port or else the resort town of Agia Marina.
Nice island for bicycling and the small coastal village of Perdika
has some nice seafood restaurants but should be avoided on weekends when
it is busy with visiting Athenians. Visit the Temple of Aphaia above Agia
Marina. Methana is not an island but may as well be. Poros is the most
like a resort but you can sail back and forth to the Peleponisos across
the channel that almost appears to be a large meandering river. Angistri
has been settled mostly by Germans who live in the main village above the
port but the far side of the island is mostly agricultural and the village
of
Limineria the inhabitants devote themselves mostly to farming
and fishing. These islands are a good choice for the winter months when
weather is unpredictable and you don't want to be too far from Athens.
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Amorgos
Few beaches but great swimming
off the rocks in the main port of Katapola. Many tavernas and nightlife.
Most boats arrive at inconvenient times, (like three in the morning), which
gives a traveler a strange first impression. The Northern port of Agiali
has nice beaches and is more of a resort area and is also reached by ferry.
The capital town or Chora is up in the mountains. The island grows
on you. Fantastic Monastery of Chozoviotissa built into the wall of a cliff
on the other side of the island from the port of is definately worth the
trip. The small beach below is excellent for snorkling through a maze of
boulders that have fallen from the cliffs.
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Andros
Boats are from Rafina. The
ferryboat goes to Gavrio. The Hermes Flying Dolphin goes to Batsi which
is touristy but fun. Lots of activities and some great restaurants, particularly
in the small traditional villages in the hills above. The best place is
the main town of Andros on the other side of the island. No cars allowed
in the village which juts out on a peninsula between two long beaches.
There is a shipping museum and an excellent art museum there. Because of
the wealth of the village tourism is not encouraged. Good reason to go
there. Renting a car is recommended. This is a beautiful, green island
that even has a small river or two.
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Chios:
The other Greek Shipowners island.
The port is a city with traffic
and buses. Lots of interesting fortress villages known as Mastichochoria
for their historic manufactoring of Mastika, a gummy sap that had major
value in cosmetics and medicine before the use of petroleum and still used
for a variety of purposes (including a kind of chewing gum and a liquor).
Chios is one of the most beautiful of the Aegean islands and has a capable
bus system. Renting a car is the best way to see it though. The tiny island
of Psara is accessable only from Chios.
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Corfu:
The British Greek Island
Corfu is featured in the
schedule of most European package holiday companies catering for the sort
of holidaymaker who is looking for a "home away from home" with guaranteed
sun, cheap booze and lots of nightlife thrown in for good measure. It has,
therefore, managed to earn itself a reputation for being full of karaoke
bars, lager louts and "restaurants" serving fish & chips and Sunday
roast beef. However, as Greek islands go, Corfu is one of the bigger ones
- 33 miles long and 15 miles across at the widest point - and provided
you stay away from the tourist hotspots like Kavos, Benitses, Gouvia
and
Ipsos,
it's easy to find parts of the island which are virtually untouched by
the tourism. Head north out of Corfu town and within about half an hour's
drive along the east coast you're at the foot of Mount Pantokrator, whose
steep slopes and winding roads have made it unviable as a mass market development
area and the coastline here is dotted with tiny turquoise coves and inlets.
This part of the island is the closest Corfu comes to Albania - at one
point you feel you could almost swim across - and it's almost impossible
not to be touched by an eerie kind of sensation when you realise just how
close you are to what was so recently an Eastern bloc country. It's also
along this stretch of coastline that Lawrence Durrell lived while he was
writing Prospero's Cell. The house is still there at Kalami but
it's now been turned into a taverna. Over on the western coast is a beach-lover's
paradise with such long sandy stretches of beach that even in the height
of the summer season it's still possible to find a quiet spot. Look for
Halikounas,
Ermones
and
Pelekas, but if you want to avoid the crowds, stay
away from Paleokastritsa, where the "film set" scenery inevitably
attracts a regular influx of daytrippers. Inland is where you can discover
a more untouched Corfu of fertile valleys, citrus and olive groves, where
the most common form of transport for the local farmers is still a donkey.
For those seeking tranquility and a place to commune with nature, there's
even a wetland nature reserve (Lake Korisson) hidden away behind the south
west coast - perfect for twitchers in the migratory season.
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Crete:
The Greek Island with Something for Everyone
Forget
Iraklion,
Ag Nikalao, Malia, and the major tourist beaches.Take the boat to Chania,the
bus to Omalos and walk down the Samarian Gorge. Most people stay in tiny
Agia
Roumeli long enough for a beer and to catch the next boat to
Chora
Sfakia,The cities of Rethymnon and Chania have nice harbors
lined with restaurants and cafes. Iraklion is a city, noisy and crowded.
The South coast is busy with tourists, but the beaches are nice and if
you don't mind doing a little walking you can get away. The hippie villages
of Matala, Paliohora, Agia Galina, Sfakia and Loutra are
now pretty much full-blown resort towns in the summer. Try the east or
western tips of Crete. Palekastro has several nice beaches that are fairly
uninhabited and the most amazing wind I have ever experienced. The beach
at Vai is the only palmtree forest in all of Europe and as you might
imagine full of tour buses during the day. Kato Zakro is a small
village on the coast at the bottom of a deep ravine cut into the rocks.
The western part of Crete in the area known as Kastelli, there are
small villages and beautiful beaches. The whole island is full of Minoan
ruins, medieval fortresses and active monasteries and a guidebook is essential
(unless you don't care about that kind of stuff). Save this island for
the off-season. It is big and really a country in itself. Follow small
roads to tiny villages and unknown beaches. If you don't have a car and
are spending your days laying in the sun and your nights in the bars and
discos of the hideously over-touristed towns of Agia Nikolao, Malia
and Cheronissos, you may as well be anywhere.
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Hydra
Former home of Leonard Cohen and jet setter haven. No beaches but who cares?
Magnificent village and swimming off the rocks is good enough for recovering
from the previous nights festivities. Restaurants and cafes on waterfront
are for people-watching. For good inexpensive food search the back-streets
or walk down the coast. No cars on the island. Lots of donkeys. Suitable
for families or decadent party animals. There are excursions to Ancient
Mycenae, Epidavros and the beaches of the Peleponisos. The town has been
restored and preserved exactly as it appeared in the 1800's when it's inhabitants
built it in a period of prosperity gained from piracy and blockade running.
The Hydriotis made a name for themselves during the war for Independence.
Nice seafood restaurants in the village of Kamina. When you tire of walking
there are water-taxis.
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Ikaria
Hot springs at Therma
and Therma Lefkada. The Port of
Ag.Kyrikos is the main town
as well. Arministis is the island's main resort town and is surrounded
by forests and fine beaches.There is an art school here that may be worth
checking out.
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Ios
Arrive by day to a quaint
white cycladic village. By nightfall every house is a disco, bar, fastfood
or boutique. Not recommended for anyone over 25, at least for not more
then a day or so. It's like an international Daytona beach at Spring
break.
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Kalymnos
Spongefishermen's island. The
main port of Pothia is lined with cafes and as home to Greece's
spongefishing fleet is a working town.There is a sponge museum there too.
There are resort beaches around the island and several other small ports
and towns worth visiting. There are small excursion boats from Pothia
to the small islands of Nera and Pserimos and from the resort
town of Myrties to Telendos where there are rooms to rent,
tavernas and beaches.
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Karpathos
Another world. Don't come here
to party but to watch and learn. Very traditional, especially the mountain
village of Olympos which was isolated for centuries and still carries on
many medieval customs and crafts.One side of the island is rocky while
the other is more fertile and green. A line of mountains seperate the two
sides. Many nice beaches some with hotels and restaurants but tourism has
not gotten out of hand here...yet. The port town of Pigadia is the island's
capital and has hotels, restaurants and cafes on an active waterfront.
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Kea
or Tzia
Quiet and traditional. Like
going to the most remote island in the Aegean, but it's so close to Athens.
How can this be? Try going there and you will understand. You can take
a flying dolphin from Pireaus but it leaves at 7:30 in the morning. It's
smooth sailing until you hit the Cavo d Oro, the most treacherous stretch
of water in the meditareanean, and then you start praying. Hydrfoils are
made for lakes and rivers, not rough seas. Alternative? Take the ferry.
But it leaves from Lavrion, If you get this far, stay in Voukari. The village
of Ioulis is a fantastic labarynth of white cycladic houses perched on
the side of a mountain, but there is nowhere to eat, though they have a
great cafeneon in the main square.
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Kefalonia
Lots of Italians. Large green
island. Locals known for being clever. Nice beaches. Village of Fiscardo
was one of the most beautiful in Greece, but that was twenty years ago.
This is where the book Corelli's Mandolin takes place. Required reading.
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Kos
Tourist industry. Drunken Swedes
herded like cattle into enormous bars. But if you are going to Bodrun (Halikarnassos)
then you have no choice but to be here. Many archeological sites including
Hellenistic, Roman, Byzantine and Venetian. The beach towns are pretty
much all resorts with disco's and bars and maniacs on motorbikes, but the
interior of the island is still undeveloped.
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Kythnos
Very few tourists. Hot springs
at the resort of Loutra and great beaches around the island, which is excellent
for walking. Only 3 hours from Athens. On the way to Sifnos so you can
stop here and if you don't like it take the next boat out.
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Leros
The main port of Laki is one
of the best examples of Art Deco Architecture. It was designed by Mussilini's
architects in 1923, though in defiance of the dictator, the capital was
moved above to the village of Platanos.The rest of the island is green
with stunning beaches and large bays. It is also the base for sailing trips
to the coast of Turkey and the other Dodekanese islands.
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Lesvos:
More Than Just Another Greek island
The best food, especially seafood. Famous for ouzo and sardines. The ouzo
is actually made by importing ingredients and assembling in the famous
factories. Still, next to Brettos, it's the best. Try Mini, Veto and Kefi.
(tip: to find the best ouzo check the alchohol content. The closer to 40%,
the better the taste). The sardines come from two big bays, Yeros and Kaloni.
Erressos is the birthplace of Sapho. It's also one of the best beaches
in the world and a popular family destination. Molyvos is built around
a medieval castle. Many foreigners, some visiting some living there. There's
a Zen center and other spiritual and cultural forums. Plomari is famous
for having the best ouzo, but actually it's only the strongest. Kaloni
is the bird-watching capital of Europe and has more wildflowers then anywhere
in Greece. The best sardines too. Thermal spas at Skala Thermi, Eftalou
and Yeros. The beach at Vatera is about ten miles long. The island is big.
Too big for motorbikes. You will need a car if you want to explore but
you can be perfectly happy without one. If my discription of Crete has
scared you off, come here instead. Ask for me in Vatoussa or Xidera where
I hang out. The Olive Press Hotel is a converted factory. It's beautiful
and right on the beach. The Sunrise Hotel is Luxury at economy prices.
Also the Sea Horse in Molyvos is right in the harbor and is cheap. Lesvos
is inexpensive ! You can save money by going here and have as much
fun or more then you will elsewhere.
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Myconos
Expensive, decadent, and fun
for gays, staight people and familes too. Intense nightlife with clubs
that never stop, and if you can't handle it there are frequent boats to
escape to other less wild islands. For a little culture there are trips
to the uninhabited ancient island of Delos and the extensive ruins there.
Plenty of excellent if not crowded beaches but people don't come to Mykonos
to escape but to party and people-watch. Bring money and credit cards.
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Milos
Another Volcanic island with
spectacular rock formations and hot springs. Bikes or car useful if not
essential. Slightly industrialized with mineral mines but don't let that
scare you away.This is a beautiful island with fantastic beaches like Chivadolimni,
Lagkada and Apollonia where you can take a boat to the island
of Kimilos. The main village of Plaka is made up of the cubic white houses
which the Cyclades are known for. The island is rich with archeological
sites including Christian catacombs, a roman ampitheatre, venetian castles
and museums. Those of you who took art history should recall that the famous
Venus de Milo was found here.
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Naxos
Another overlooked gem in the
Aegean, Naxos is big, green and may have the best beaches in Greece. It's
close to the popular islands of Mykonos, Ios, Paros and Santorini with
frequent ferry connections. Lively harbor town with restaurants, cafes,
clubs and shops. Rent a car and see the whole island. Beautiful valleys
that are like paradise if you enjoy walking, particularly the area known
as Tragaia. The best beach they say is at Plaka with other nice ones at
Agios Yorgos, Agia Anna, Mikri Vigla, and Kastraki, any of which would
be the prized beach on any other island. The fishing village of Apollon
is a popular location for day trips, with good seafood restaurants and
a giant unfinished statue of the God Apollo laying in the ancient marble
quarries since 600bc.
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Patmos
Quiet island at night but busy
stop by day for Cruise ships. A Spectacular island with great beaches and
landscape this is where the Apocolypse of John, or Revalations was written.
Tourism was down last summer so look for bargains here next summer.
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Paros
Grand Central Station of Aegean.
Most boats stop here. Town is full of foreigners and bars. Head for the
smaller villages or Antiparos.The tiny idealic fishing village of
Naousa
is so crowded in the summer that you have to stand in line to walk past
the cafes that surround the port. The beaches of Paros though popular are
also quite nice. Antiparos has nice beaches and cafes and is more relaxed
then Paros. There is also the gigantic Cave of Antiparos which is the most
popular site on the island.
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Rhodes
Big city but stay in the old
town and you'll love it. Fantastic castle built by the Knights of Saint
John. Lots of nightlife. Try Sticky Fingers or the 60's bar. Tell Kosta
Iraklides I sent you. Check out the rest of the island which is agricultural
with great beaches and some fancy resorts. Lindos is picturesque and packed
during the season but go early or late and share it with the locals. Plenty
of undiscovered spots but you will need a car to find them. Don't forget
the Valley of the Butterflies. Well they are moths actually but nonetheless
impressive.
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Samos
Big and green. Nice beaches.
Tourism is down here for some reason so take advantage while you can. Car
or bike essential. Industrial city of Karlavassi with deserted warehouses
and factories would make a cool set for a movie abouth the end of the world.
The main port is busy but fun. Day trips to Turkey. Ephesus is fantastic,
an entire ruined ancient city.
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Santorini
Visually spectacular. Must
be approached by sea to get the full effect of sailing into a giant crater
so don't fly there and arrive before dark. Thira is touristy, Oia is quieter.
The daytime action is at the beaches, Perissa and Kamari. Good Raki and
domatokeftedes (fried tomato-balls). Ruins of Ancient Thira are worth the
trip if you are unimpressed by the most spectacular sunsets on this planet.
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Sifnos
Visually attractive and still
Greek. For the thirty and older crowd, single or married with children.
Apollonia, in the center of the island, has fun nightlife. Great beaches
all around the island. Fantastic food and wine. My favorite for twenty
years. Port of Kamares is nice combination of beach, restaurants and a
few bars all within walking distance. Stavros Hotel is great place to stay
with a view of the beach and harbor from your balcony. The cleanest port
in the entire Aegean. Houses and villas for rent all over the island. Vathi
is quiet with excellent food at Manolis Taverna. You can get there by road
or small daily boat.
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Serifos
Poor neighbor of Sifnos. Relatively
undeveloped outside of main port. Nice beaches. Like Sifnos, Milos, and
Kythnos, for older travelers.
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Sikinos
Not ready for Prime-time.That's
more then enough reason to go there. Very little tourism, it is an island
of mostly fishermen and farmers. There are rooms to rent in the twin villages
of Kastro and Chora situated in the mountains and in the quiet port town
of Alopronoia.
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Skiathos
The Mykonos of the Sporades.Fantastic
beaches, among the best in Greece. Plenty of nightlife and lots of trees,
forests and wildlife. With many foreigners living here year round it's
not a bad place to visit in the off-season. Take a look at the Zorbathes
Villas and retreat by clicking on Skiathos above.
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Skopelos,
Alonissos, Skyros
Hard to get to but worth the
trip they say. Very Green with Skopelos being the more developed touristically,
yet nowhere near the degree of Skiathos.Very nice beaches and some interesting
traionl villages and customs.
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Spetses
Expensive. Nice beaches. Pine
trees. Water-taxis and Nightlife in the old harbor plus one of the oldest
wooden boat building yards in Greece. Spetsi is most famous for being the
setting for the John Fowles book The Magus which is suggested reading for
your visit here.You can travel all around the island by bicycle or water
taxi and there are excursion boats and buses to the various beaches.. Flying
Dolphin service to Naphlion and points south make Spetsi a doorway to the
Peleponisos.
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Syros
A working class island. The
capital of the cyclades with a century old ship yard servicing ocean going
freighters and tankers, right in the harbor. Beautiful town, more like
a small city. Two or three of the best restaurants in Greece. Extremely
nice beaches too. I am convinced that the town of Hermiopoulis, will one
day be a popular destination in the off-season. The reason is the architecture.
In the late 1800's the town was the main port for Greece and is full of
old buildings, churches and mansions that have now been restored. It has
cobblestone streets and great cafes. If you love old buildings and good
food, come here. Great Hotel called the Kymata, right on the waterfront.
Ask for a room with a balcony and you will never want to leave.
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Zakynthos
Favorite Ionian Island of most
expatriates and philhellenes. Shipwreck beach is one of the most famous
Greece tourist photos and one of the most amazing beaches.
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